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Care guide

Rabbits are often mistaken as beginner pets while in reality they require lots of care and attention. But don't panic! We have all the tips, tricks & information that any bunny parent will need.

What to feed your bunny

Let’s start with the basics. Having a healthy diet is absolutely necessary for your rabbit’s well being. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems, and problems with their gut is one of the leading causes of illness and death. So what does a healthy rabbit diet look like? *Hay is the most important part of a rabbits diet.* Unlimited, high-quality hay, such as Timothy, orchard or meadow should make up the bulk of your buns daily intake. Rabbit's should be fed a variety of leafy greens every day. (You should wait to start introducing veggies until your rabbit reaches about 3-4 months of age.)

bunny feed chart.webp

How much pellets to feed your rabbit:
Weight of rabbit          Amount of pellets daily
2 lbs                                2 Tbsp
3 lbs                               3 Tbsp
4 lbs                               ¼ cup
5 lbs                              1 Tbsp + ¼ cup
6 lbs                              2 Tbsp + ¼ cup
7 lbs                              3 Tbsp + ¼ cup
8 lbs                              ½ cup
9 lbs                             1 Tbsp + ½ cup
10 lbs                           2 Tbsp + ½ cup

What fruits and vegetables can rabbits eat?

Rabbit safe vegetables: 

  • Leafy greens/lettuces (romaine, green leaf, red leaf, Boston bibb, arugula, butter, romaine, kale, watercress, endive, carrot tops, celery leaves, chicory)

  • Brassicas (cabbage, bok choy, brussels sprouts, radish tops)

  • Herbs (dill, basil, mint, cilantro, borage, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme )

  • Starchy veggies (squash, carrot, celery, pumpkin, zucchini, pea pods, bell pepper, eggplant)

  • Broccoli and cauliflower florets

  • *Be sure to do your research on specific veggies as some can cause gas if not given in moderation*

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Not good or possibly dangerous vegetables for rabbits:

  • Onions 

  • Potatoes 

  • Avocado (toxic)

  • Corn 

  • Iceberg Lettuce

  • Chard

  • Rhubarb

  • Garlic

  • Leeks

 

Rabbit safe fruits:

  • Tomatoes (not the plant)

  • Apples (no seeds)

  • Watermelon

  • Berries (Strawberries, Blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, cranberries.)

  • Bananas (no peel)

  • Pineapples (no peel)

  • Grapes

  • Nectarines

  • Kiwi

  • Mango

  • Honeydew

  • Cherries (no seeds)

  • Papaya

  • Peach

  • Pear

  • Plum

  • Melon

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Not good fruits for rabbits:

 

Rabbits can eat citrus fruits like oranges, grapefruit, or lemons. But these are very acidic and may cause mouth ulcers in some rabbits.

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Rabbit Living quarters

 

Most pet stores will try to sell you a small cage for your rabbit, similar to what they would offer for a guinea pig. In the vast majority of cases, the cages sold as ‘rabbit’ cages are much too small. Unfortunately this is because there is still a lot of misinformation out there about rabbit care.

We recommend using an x-pen for your rabbit’s enclosure. It gives the rabbit a lot of space to play & lie down. Plus rabbits can be easily litter box trained which makes clean up super simple.

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Not everyone can, but if you have the ability, free roaming your rabbit is one of the best choices you can do for a happy and healthy bunny, since rabbits need at least a minimum of 4hrs of exercise per day. Rabbits have a tendency to be a little mischievous and chew on things they shouldn’t, so you want to make sure you bunny-proof any areas of the house your rabbit is allowed to roam around in.

bunny housing set up indoors

Some families feel safer if their rabbit is confined completely while they are out. Cages are acceptable for rabbits if they are the right size and also be sure they get time outside of the cage daily.  Even though some cages are spacious, rabbit still need exercise. With any cage purchase or a nice hutch, we always recommend getting an exercise pen as well and attaching it around the cage so they aren’t just stuck in their cage for most of the time. Rabbits need to run, jump, flop, and zoom! Just like you wouldn't keep your dog in a cage all day, bunnies also need attention and exercise. 

Bunny Proofing Your House

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  1. Prevent destructive behaviors of your rabbit

  2. Keep your rabbit safe

  3. Give your rabbit fun alternatives for chewing and digging

Rabbits love to dig and chew. In order to protect your rabbit as well as your home you’ll need to do a bit of bunny proofing. The goal is to allow your rabbit to exercise or roam free without having to keep a constant watch on them. Sometimes you only need to rabbit proof the room where you let your rabbit out to exercise. But you can also choose to rabbit proof your whole house so your rabbit has more space to be free and join the family.

Wires are one of the main targets of bunnies. This "spicy hay" is just irresistible to buns. Their sharp teeth can slice through your wires quickly, damaging your favorite lamp or worse, electrocuting your rabbit. It is best to cover wires with hard plastic sleeves or flex tubing. These can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement or electronics store. Even better is to keep all wires out of the reach of your bunnies. It can be best to try and consolidate as many wires as you can into just one or two spots. Then block those areas off from your rabbit. 

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Rabbits are natural burrowers, which means digging is a natural behavior for your rabbit. If you can, keep your rabbit in rooms with hardwood flooring and use area rugs that you won’t mind if your rabbit digs at. But if that’s not possible, the first thing to do is to put something down to cover the carpet, especially in the corners of rooms and around doorways.  You can also position pieces of furniture in corners to keep your bun away from these tempting digging spots.

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Bunnies also have a tendency to chew on things that we really don’t want them to bite. Because rabbits teeth grow continually, they will chew to wear down those teeth. Having hay as the main part of their diet is very helpful for bunny dental health, but rabbits also need a variety of chew toys. And even if they have enough toys, sometimes they decide they want to chew on the baseboards instead. If you’re having some trouble getting your rabbit to stop biting the baseboards, a great solution is setting up a 'fence' around the perimeter of  your room. Connecting X-pens, diy storage cubes or carboard can all be great options.

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How to litter train your rabbit

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Most new bunny owners welcome their new furry friend into their homes but after a couple months of non stop pooping and peeing all over, they end up re-homing their bunny. What most of these new bunny parents don't know is that bunnies can be trained to potty in a litter pan, just like cats, and its actually not as hard as you might think! It just takes a little bit of extra work to help your rabbit understand that the litter box is where they should use the bathroom. Rabbits are very clean animals and they will naturally want to keep themselves and their environment clean. In fact, they sometimes even learn how to use a litter box all by themselves. But sometimes you get a stubborn bun who just won't use the litter box no matter what you try. It's important to have patience with yourself & your rabbit. The process takes time, but with persistence we know you can do it!

*Do not use cat litter which is toxic to bunnies. We recommend using unscented paper (pellet) litter (which can be found in the litter isle at any pet store.)

  1. Start small. Keep your rabbit in their enclosure for a couple of days with a litter box set up in the corner. Clean the enclosure frequently, but keep a little urine and poop in the litter box so your rabbit can learn that’s where they belong.

  2. Increase the space. You can place a couple of litter boxes throughout the room and give your rabbit some time out of the enclosure to exercise.

  3. Pay close attention to your rabbit. As your rabbit explores, watch them and try to catch them as they defecate so you can herd them to a nearby litter box.

  4. Clean up any accidents. You’ll want to clean up any accidents right away so that your rabbit won’t come back to use the same spot again. Vinegar is a great cleaning option for rabbit urine. If they do continue to use the same spot as their bathroom, move the litter box to the rabbit’s chosen place.

  5. Remove the extra litter boxes. If you are training with multiple boxes, As your rabbit gets better at using the litter box, start to remove them one by one until your rabbit always goes back to their box to use the bathroom.

  6. Tips & tricks. A helpful tip is to put your rabbits food bowl in/near the litter box. Rabbits poop excessively because they have a unique digestive system. Rabbit health relies on the continued movement of their digestive tract so they can quickly extract energy from their diet. Buns especially tend to potty as they eat. Putting their food in the litter pan will help them associate pooping in their box. Also put your bunny's hay in a corner of the litter box or you can use a hay bag & hang it in their litter pan. (We have hay bags for sale on our site if you'd like to check it out)

Grooming your rabbit

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Rabbits shed a lot and you’ll have to brush them frequently. While rabbits shed a little bit all the time, they’ll have two big molting seasons where they shed their winter and summer coats. You’ll need to brush your rabbit daily to keep their fur from getting matted. It also keeps them from ingesting too much fur, preventing blockages in your rabbits gut. Rabbits with long fur/wool, like teddywidders &  fuzzy lops, may need to be shaven down a few times a year to prevent matting and make grooming easier, especially for beginner owners.

Regular nail clipping is also important because long nails can get snagged on things or they can curl into your rabbit’s paw. 

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Should i bathe my rabbit?

NO! Please do not ever bathe your rabbit. Similar to cats, Rabbits are meticulously clean and almost never need a bath. Bathing them can even be harmful, since they tend to panic in water and may fracture a limb or their spine if they thrash around. Wet rabbits can also catch a chill and suffer from pneumonia, respiratory infections, hypothermia, and other life-threatening conditions.

You should only bathe a bunny when specifically instructed to do so by a knowledgeable veterinarian who specializes in rabbit care. There may be certain situations when it’s necessary to spot-clean bunnies’ bottoms, But it’s usually not safe or beneficial to wet down the bunny’s whole body.

 Baby/pet safe wipes or a damp rag are better options if you need to do a quick clean up on your furry baby.

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Bonding Bunnies


I have one bunny but I don't want him to get lonely, can I get him a friend?

Yes, but there are some things you should know as you can't just put 2 bunnies together & expect them to live happily ever after.

If you have another bunny at home or planning on another in the future, the spay/neuter procedure is key for successful bonding. If you take home 2 or more babies from the same litter, they will most likely need to be re-bonded once they are fixed, but there have been instances where pairs of two boys or two girls from the same litter can be bonded for life without being spayed/neutered. Always introduce new bunnies in a neutral environment to avoid aggression. This process may take time and patience, but it is totally worth it in the end when you can have multiple hoppy bunnies running around your home.  We recommend housing your buns side by side so that they can see and smell each other but far enough where no fighting between bars can occur. Holding both bunnies in your lap and petting them or sitting on the ground and playing with both bunnies can help them socialize with each other. You can also set up a neutral territory for the both of them to have a supervised play date and see how they interact with each other. I've never tried this method, but I have heard from some that putting your bunnies in a basket together and taking them for a ride in the car can help them get along since they are experiencing something new together.  Always keep an eye on your bunnies when you let them socialize and don't house them together until you are completely sure that they are bonded and aren't going to fight with each other, as bunnies can hurt or even kill one another if not fully bonded.

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Bring Your bun to a Rabbit-Savvy Vet

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GI stasis

Rabbits are prey animals, and so their natural instinct is to hide any symptoms of illness. You must keep a watchful eye to ensure your rabbit is eating, drinking, pooping, and peeing regularly. If you notice any change in behavior, it is important to call a rabbit-savvy vet immediately. Especially keep an eye on whether your bunny is pooping regularly. If your rabbit has stopped eating or has not  pooped for more than 12 hours, you should consider the condition an emergency! Get your bunny to a vet immediately! GI-stasis is one of the most common problems in rabbits and usually starts with no eating/pooping. It is handy to have critical care on hand for when these emergencies arise. You can also mash up some pellets with water and syringe feed- if you don't have any critical care. Fresh pineapple juice is another thing we always like to have for emergencies. The juice provides rehydration and energy  & the enzymes in it are also known to break down and clear furballs that get stuck in rabbit intestines. It is recommended to use fresh pineapple juice (not canned)since the enzymes only work when the pineapple is fresh and using canned would just be adding sugar without getting any of the good stuff in exchange. You can even mix your CC (critical care) with pineapple juice.

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In addition to responding to illness, it is also essential to bring your rabbit in for regular veterinary checkups.  The vet can check the ears, eyes, teeth, and gut to make sure the rabbit is in good health.

 

Spaying/Neutering your bunny

Another important thing to consider is spaying or neutering your rabbit. Spaying/neutering can reduce aggressive behavior & territorial marking, improve litter box habits, and improve a rabbit’s overall health. Fixing your bunny can significantly add to their life expectancy and general health. Reproductive cancers(mammary, uterine, ovarian, testicular) are relatively common in rabbits. Fixing your rabbit eliminates the risk of  reproductive cancer- which is fatal if not found & treated immediately. Though spaying/neutering can be expensive for exotics, there are many benefits- chat with your rabbit savy vet to see if fixing your bunny is something you should consider doing. 

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Houston rabbit vets

Having a rabbit savvy vet to take your bunny to is very important. Here is a list of Rabbit vets in the Greater Houston & surrounding Areas:

> ABC Animal & Bird Clinic
281-495-9445 11930 S Texas 6 Sugar Land, TX 77498
> All Pets Animal Hospital
281-524-3800 | 24221 Kingsland Blvd Katy, Texas 77494
> Animal Kingdom Pet Hospital
281-524-3800 | 551 A League City Parkway League City, TX
77573
> Animal Medical Center of the Village
713-524-3800 | 5406 Kirby Dr. Houston, TX 77005
> Braescroft Animal Clinic
713-721-8081| 9643 Hillcroft St Houston, TX 77096
> Briarcrest Veterinary Clinic
713-789-8320 1492 Wilcrest Drive Houston, TX 77042
> Cypress Lakes Animal Hospital
832-220-1582 | 10920 Fry Rd. Suite 750 Cypress, TX 77433
> Gulf Coast Veterinary Specialists
713-693-1111 | 8042 Katy Freeway, Houston, TX 77024
Open 24/7/365 for Emergency Services
> Kingsland Boulevard Animal Clinic
281-578-1506 | 20701 Kingsland Blvd Suite 105 Katy, Texas
77450
> Paws to Claws Veterinary Care
281-356-2384 | 38015 Spur 149 Rd. Magnolia, TX 77354
> Pearland Pet Health Center
713-436-2555 | 10525 Hughes Ranch Road Pearland, TX 77584 (we've personally used Dr. May)
> VCA Spring Branch Animal Hospital
713-461-1121 10109 Long Point Rd, Houston TX 77043

>West Columbia Animal Hospital

979-428-5776 | 1251 N Columbia Dr, West Columbia TX 77486 (we've personally used Dr. Janke)

> Family Animal Hospital

281-482-1594 | 1 Oaktree St, Friendswood TX 77546 (we've personally used Dr. Zoo & Dr. Nicolette)

Bunny FAQ

 

How big do rabbits get?

Depending on the breed, rabbits can weigh as little as 1lbs and as big as 20lbs

The average house rabbit weighs 6lbs. 

Below is a list of rabbit breeds with their approximate weight.

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Teddywidder: 2-4lbs

American Fuzzy Lop: 3-4lbs

Mini lop: 6.5lbs

Netherland Dwarf: 1-2.5lbs

Holland lop: 2-4lbs

Jersey Wooly: 2.5-3.5lbs

Polish: 2.5-3.5lbs

Britannia Petite:1.5-2.5lbs

Lionhead: 2.5-4lbs

English Spot: 5-8lbs

Dutch: 3.5-5.5lbs

Lilac: 6-8lbs

Mini Rex:3.5-4.5lbs

Silver Martin: 9.5lbs

Hotot: 8-11lbs

Velveteen lop: 5-7lbs

Plush Lop: 3-4.5lbs

Rex: 6-10lbs

Himalayan: 3-4.5lbs

Californian: 7-10lbs

New Zealand: 9-12lbs

Harlequin: 6.5-9.5lbs

Belgian Hare: 6-9lbs

Satin Angora: 9.5lbs

English Angora: 5-7.5lbs

French Angora: 7.5-10.5lbs

French Lop:10-15lbs

English Lop:9-11lbs

Flemish Giant: 15-22lbs

Continental Giant:16-20lbs

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How long do rabbits live?

Bunnies generally live for 5-8 years depending on their environment and breed but they can live up to 12years. On average, The bigger the rabbit breed the shorter the lifespan and vise versa. Lop breeds also tend to have a shorter lifespan than straight eared rabbits. 

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